“Mumbai City Is What It Eats”
One of the fascinating factors of present scenario of urban social life around the globe is the widespread presence of “STREET FOOD”. The real excitement of eating in the Mumbai City is on the streets. Anyone with a cast-iron stomach who has walked down the by-lanes of Sion- Koliwada or Mohammad Ali Road, Soaking in the rich aromas wafting from open kitchens will appreciate the significance of Street Food.
As you move from one area to anther the food will change, offering insights into how the city itself developed and the people who influenced its growth. As they say:
A City Is What It Eats.
For centuries Mumbai has been attracting people from all over the country as well as world and becoming the heart beats of people. In response Hindus, Muslims and Parsees from Gujarat, Maharashtra and South konkan became the first immigrants. The happiest reflection of this is in the many languages spoken by Mumbaikar’s and the variety of eating places that cater to their esoteric taste.
South Mumbai’s Khau Gali is one such example. Located in the congested Zaveri Bazar area, just behind the Bullion Exchange Building, the official name of Khau Gali was Third Agiary Lane. Literally translated Khau Gali means “eating street”. Here practically any time of day or night, it is possible to have an interesting vegetarian meal for as little as Rs 25. Khau gali came up when the bullion trade evolved as Sheikh Memon Street and trading was conducted by four merchants in an open space.
Khau gali kept pace with the growth, serving the largely vegetarian Guajarati’s and Marwari. People from all over the city come here to try the hot Jalebies, the spicy vadas soaked in a light, watery, mustard-flavored dip, crisp dosas and even papads roasted on a charcoal.
Street corner cooking is not just cheap and exciting but fascinating to watch as well. Within the 200 meter stretch of Khau Gali several stalls offer Pau Bhaji, easily the most popular of Street Food. Pau bhaji is a spicy mix of cauliflower, capsicum, peas, potatoes, tomatoes and could contain every conceivable vegetable. The vegetable are cooked in liberal pats of butter over a large flat iron griddle and garnished with chopped coriander. Rich with the aroma of spices, the bhaji is served along with tiny loaves of bread called “pau”.
In Mumbai you won’t need to travel far for it. Practically every area has push carts serving the specialty.
The place you will have to go and you should better go is Mohammad Ali Road during the month long festival of Ramzan. Once the sun sets, a signal for devout Muslims to break Ramzan fast, the Mohammad Ali Road area with its bright lights, incessant noise and eastern-bazaar setting, begins to attract thousands of diners. Around the Minara Masjid (mosque) and Bohri Mohalla, the very heat of the Muslim quarters, every by-lane is crammed with authentic Muslim eating houses, stretch from Bhendi Bazaar till Mohammad Ali Road. The street food which served here provide sustenance for body and soul after observing a fast for whole day.
The specialty of the street vendors are Chicken65 (most popular), chicken tikka, Shwarma, chicken roll etc. It is not the Muslim community who visit the street but also non Muslims who share their spread with Muslim brethren. Hanging from metal skewers lining the streets are all kinds of meats: chicken m, mutton, chungs of liver etc.
Sweets have their own importance in each and every festival of India. The mouth watering sweets like “Firni” , “Malpuwa” , “Aflatoon” etc. “Malpuwa” made up of mixture of maida, ghee, dry fruits, eggs and sugar with malai gives you feel as a rich “nawab” as told by the street shop owner. The dying tradition is carried out by these people who served kheer in “kullar” (mud pot).
Tall glasses of “Falooda” , “ Sherbats” are popular dessert.
Variety of firni include:-
Black Current
Strawberry
Mango
Kesar firni etc.
The specialty is seen in the “Aflatoon” sweet which is famous world wide and the one who is coming to Mumbai definitely take Aflatoon with him. Many bollywood celebs enjoy the street food in month long festival “Ramzan”. But eating at Mohammad Ali Road, even outside the month of Ramzan, isn’t for the squeamish.
The more determined could try out the nearby Bhori Mohala, especially the eating houses around Pakmodia Street. The area is home to the little-known Baara and Nau Handi shops. Baara and Nau Handi literally means twelve and nine vessels. Sweet breads and other meats are cooked in either 12 or 9 individual vessel arranged over a charcoal oven. Typically, the handi shop will have a roti maker next door.
What we consider 100 percent Mumbai is Bhel. Most city beaches, especially Chowpatty and Juhu, are famed for the snack, a tangy puffed rice, sev, chopped onions,, potatoes, red and green chilies, puris and chutney served in a newspaper cone. Kailash Parbat, an outlet famous for Sindhi Cuisine in Colaba also does a variety of snacks which include Bhel.My vote goes to Kailash Parbat.
Mumbaikar’s are not just fond of the snack but proud of it. A hundred of stalls on the beach run by Sharma and Gupta. Basically these people are from Uttar Pradesh, offered BHEL discounts.
Everyone knows VithaL Bhelwala near Victoria Terminus (V.T.). `He is known for his pau bhaji and bhel puri.
There are places in the city like Amritsar fry centre at Khar and Bade Miyan atColaba, which no one can afford to miss. Both are street- side stalls with reputations to rival those of larger upmarket restaurants. But it is Bade Miyan who is more or less a Mumbai Landmark. Open late into night, it is not uncommon to see a Mercedes Benz outside his stall and Kheeri Kaleji cooked over a coal barbecue. Life around Bade Miyan is really interesting. I suggest you to go and get to know ourselves. The places where you won’t need to make a reservation and still enjoy the food are too numerous.
The down to earth eateries are the pride of any Mumbaikar. Hundreds of the south Indian restaurants dot the city where the food is tasty, wholesome and clean. When the Mughalscame, Maharashtra produced great Maratha warrior like Chhatrapati Shivaji.
Mumbai is home to different types of people, people of diverse culture, faith, taste etc live in harmony in this city. The street vendors, food stalls cater to all their diverse needs
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